A cantilever sliding gate is a practical and aesthetic solution for securing a property. Unlike a tracked model, it does not require ground-level masonry along the entire length of the opening, which simplifies installation. However, its installation requires careful preparation of your entrance layout. Here are the points to check before you begin.
Choosing a cantilever sliding gate
Before choosing your model, consider the practical aspects: do you want to motorize it? Do you need a separate pedestrian gate, a keypad, or a videophone? These choices will determine the space required and the work to be planned. The cantilever gate is appreciated for its ease of maintenance and versatility. It is particularly suitable for sloping entrances because, being suspended, its lateral opening (the clearance) is not hindered by the slope of the ground.
Possible opening directions
The opening direction depends on the configuration of your entrance. The gate can open:
- to the right (viewed from the inside);
- to the left (viewed from the inside);
- as a double leaf, with a section opening on each side (rarer for a cantilever model).
The choice depends on the available lateral clearance space.
Motorization systems
Most cantilever gates can be motorized. There are two main configurations:
- Ground-mounted motor: This is the most common case. The motor block is fixed to the ground (sometimes on a small concrete plinth) and drives the gate. It is connected to the control board, safety photocells, and warning lights.
- Motor integrated into the pillar: Some newer models integrate the motor directly into the guide pillar. The control board, flashing light, and photocells can also be housed there, which avoids masonry for the pillars and offers a more discreet finish.
Power supply
The motorization, lighting, and accessories (videophone, etc.) require a secure power supply. Here are the points to plan.
Connections
A trench must be planned to run a red TPC conduit from your electrical panel to the gate. The power supply must be 230 V (Phase + Neutral + Earth), protected at the panel by a dedicated 30 mA residual current circuit breaker. Also, remember to run the necessary cables for the intercom or videophone in the same trench. Once the cables are pulled, the conduit must be buried at a regulatory depth (minimum 60 cm, or 85 cm under a vehicle crossing zone) and covered with a red warning mesh.
Opening in the event of a power failure
What should you do in the event of a power cut? Two solutions exist for opening your gate manually:
- Backup battery: It takes over automatically in the event of a mains failure.
- Mechanical release: A key or lever system allows the motor to be disengaged to operate the gate by hand. This is an essential safety feature, which also works in the event of a motor failure. Note: for the release to be accessible from the outside, the gate height should generally not exceed 1.60 m.
Using one remote control for the gate and the garage
It is very convenient to control the opening of the gate and the garage door with the same remote control. However, manufacturers often use proprietary radio protocols that are incompatible with each other. The solution is to install an external (or universal) receiver on one of the two automated systems. This receiver will then be controlled by the remote of the other device. Inquire about connection compatibility, as this receiver can sometimes occupy the slot intended for a key switch or an intercom.
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