When you run a campsite or a holiday rental, fencing isn’t just about marking property lines. It reassures parents, protects against intrusions and, above all, preserves guests’ privacy without turning the place into a prison. Between local rules and real on-the-ground needs, here’s how to sort it out.

Safety and regulations: what you need to know

If you welcome the public, safety isn’t optional. For example, if your property has a shared swimming pool, the law requires a compliant access fence (NF P90-306) to prevent any risk of drowning.

Before buying your rolls or panels, always check with the town hall to consult the Local Urban Plan (PLU). In many tourist or protected areas, municipalities impose maximum heights, colours (often green or grey) or specific materials so as not to spoil the landscape.

Rigid panels: the strong, long-lasting option

To mark out pitches or secure the perimeter of a holiday rental, rigid panels (or rigid mesh fencing) are still the safe bet. It’s neat, almost impossible to vandalise or climb, and it lasts over time.

If you go through specialist suppliers like Districlos, choose galvanised and powder-coated models. They resist rust far better, especially if your land is damp or near the sea. Aesthetically, dark shades (anthracite grey, moss green) blend easily into the vegetation.

Protecting guests’ privacy (overlooking)

No one likes having breakfast on the mobile home terrace under the neighbours’ gaze. To block overlooking without building big walls, you can dress up your rigid panels:

• Privacy slats (wood or PVC): They slide directly into the mesh. It’s neat and modern, and PVC requires no maintenance.
• Artificial hedges: A great way to get greenery straight away, with no trimming or watering chores.
• Fabric privacy screens: Less attractive in the long run, but very cost-effective for quickly screening long stretches.

Roll fencing for large areas

If your property covers several hectares or borders a forest, installing rigid panels everywhere will quickly blow your budget.

For these outer areas, flexible roll fencing (single-twist chain-link or welded mesh) is much more economical. It easily adapts to sloping or uneven ground. Installed on sturdy posts, it’s more than enough to keep wild or stray animals out.

Don’t overlook access points

A good fence is useless if the entrances are poorly planned. For a campsite, plan a sliding gate wide enough for motorhomes and caravans to manoeuvre without stress. For a holiday rental, a nice matching pedestrian gate makes a great first impression as soon as guests arrive. In all cases, choose sturdy hardware: in peak season, this equipment is used dozens of times a day.

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Over three or four meters, installing a straight fence is within everyone’s reach. However, as soon as the distance increases, things become more complicated. A discrepancy of a few millimeters at the start can quickly turn into a gap of several centimeters at the end, leaving you with a fence that zigzags or encroaches on the neighbor’s property.

To achieve impeccable alignment, you don’t need to be a professional: you simply need to use the right method and proceed step by step.

Necessary equipment (the human eye is not enough)

Over a long distance, it is impossible to rely solely on visual perception. Before digging the first hole, gather these few tools:

• A nylon mason’s line (avoid cotton, which stretches with humidity).
• Sturdy stakes or metal markers.
• A tape measure, a reliable spirit level, and a plumb bob.

An outdoor laser level can also save you time, although the traditional string method remains the most reliable for beginners. If you are looking for quality equipment or advice on choosing your panels, you will find everything you need at Districlos (in-store or on their website).

Start by fixing the ends

All precision work relies on the two ends of your future fence. Drive a first stake at the exact location of your first post, then a second at the other end. Take the time to carefully check your property boundaries before driving anything in: once the concrete is poured, it will be too late to correct the situation.

Then stretch the mason’s line between these two stakes. It must be as tight as possible so as not to sag under its own weight in the middle of the run. This line will serve as a guide for the rest of the project.

The marker technique against wind and sagging

If your fence exceeds 15 or 20 meters, the line will inevitably sag or move due to the wind. To avoid this, place intermediate markers or stakes every 10 to 15 meters.

To align these markers without distorting your reference line, use a simple trick: stand behind one of the end stakes and aim for the opposite stake. Visually align your intermediate markers so that they hide the stake at the other end. Then fix your line to these intermediate points to stabilize it properly.

How to handle slopes and bumps?

Perfectly flat terrain is quite rare over long distances. If the ground has a slope, two solutions are available to you:

• Stepped installation: the line remains perfectly horizontal. You adjust the height of each post individually using your spirit level to create regular steps.
• Parallel slope installation: the line follows the natural curve of the ground at a constant height. In this case, use the plumb bob to ensure that each post remains perfectly vertical, and do not tilt it to follow the slope.

Placing and setting the posts without moving the line

Mark the location of each post on the ground by precisely measuring the recommended spacing for your panels or fencing.

When digging the holes and putting the posts in place, be very careful: the post should touch the mason’s line, but never lean against it. If a post pushes the line, even by two millimeters, it will distort the alignment of all subsequent ones.

For pouring the concrete:

• Start by setting the end posts to firmly establish your reference points, then work your way toward the center.
• Use wooden cleats as braces to hold each post in place while the concrete dries. Check the plumb one last time before letting it harden.

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When installing a wicket gate, the question of the opening direction comes up very quickly: should it open inward (push) or outward (pull)? This detail changes many things in day-to-day use, whether in terms of practicality, safety, or simply legal compliance. Here is what you need to know before setting your posts.

What the law says

Before deciding, you should first check the regulations. In France, the Civil Code and local planning rules are clear: your wicket gate must never encroach on the public highway. If your fence opens directly onto a pavement or a street, outward opening is therefore prohibited.

The aim is simple: to avoid obstructing or injuring pedestrians. The only exception concerns wicket gates installed set back from the property line, leaving enough space for the gate leaf to open without extending into the street. If your gate is directly on the property line, inward opening is mandatory.

Inward opening: the classic, safer option

This is the most common option. Known as a push-opening gate, it opens towards your garden. It is a natural choice that prevents visitors from having to step back onto the pavement to let you open it.

In terms of safety, it is also reassuring if you have children or pets. If the gate is not properly closed, the leaf opens towards the garden rather than towards the street, which limits the risk of a direct escape onto the roadway.

Outward opening: to save space

Less common, outward opening (or pull-opening) is useful for narrow entrances. If you do not have enough clearance in your courtyard, or if a parked car blocks the way, opening inward quickly becomes frustrating.

By choosing an outward-opening wicket gate, you keep the entire surface of your courtyard available. It is an excellent solution for small spaces, provided you have sufficient setback from the street to remain compliant with the law.

The trap of sloping ground

Sometimes, the ground itself makes the decision. If your driveway slopes up towards the house, inward opening will be difficult, or even impossible: the bottom of the gate will scrape the ground as soon as you try to open it.

You then have two options: outward opening (if the law allows it where you live) or using rising hinges. These accessories lift the gate slightly as it opens, preventing it from catching on the slope.

Left-hand or right-hand inward-opening: how to choose?

Once you have chosen the opening direction (inward or outward), you still need to decide which side to install the handle and lock. To avoid making a mistake when ordering, stand on the street side, facing your gate:

• If the lock is on the right and you push the gate inward, it is a right-hand inward-opening.
• If the lock is on the left and you push inward, it is a left-hand inward-opening.

For outward opening (pull-opening), the logic is reversed because you pull the gate leaf towards you.

Also consider everyday obstacles: the presence of a letterbox, a water meter, or a tree may force you to choose one side rather than the other. If you are unsure, the Districlos teams can help you choose the aluminium or steel model best suited to your project.

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If your roof is poorly oriented or cluttered, installing your photovoltaic panels on the ground is an excellent alternative for generating your own electricity. However, placing modules in your garden requires compliance with certain planning and safety regulations. Between protecting the equipment from theft and preventing accidents, the question of installing a fence arises quickly. Here is what you need to know before getting started.

Planning Regulations for Ground-Mounted Installations

Before choosing your fencing, you need to check the urban planning code. If your panels have a capacity of less than 3 kW and do not exceed 1.80 meters in height, you normally do not need to complete any formalities (unless you live near a historic monument or in a protected area). Beyond these thresholds (height greater than 1.80 m or capacity over 3 kW), a prior works declaration (DP) with the town hall is mandatory.

Also remember to review your municipality’s Local Urban Development Plan (PLU): some town halls impose minimum distances from the street or prohibit certain visual elements to preserve the landscape.

Is It Mandatory to Enclose Access to Your Panels?

From a purely legal standpoint, nothing requires you to surround your panels with fencing. In practice, however, it is strongly recommended. Panels installed at human height remain accessible to children, pets, or passersby. A damaged cable or faulty inverter can quickly become dangerous.

There is also an insurance consideration: most insurers require that your property be fully enclosed to cover theft or vandalism. Without solid fencing and a locked gate, you risk receiving no compensation in the event of damage.

Installing a Fence: What Limits Must Be Observed?

If you decide to enclose the area, be aware that installing a barrier is also subject to regulations. While the Civil Code (Article 647) guarantees the right to enclose one’s property, many municipalities require a prior declaration with the town hall before installing fencing or a low wall.

Here again, the local PLU sets the rules. It generally establishes the maximum authorized height (often limited to 2 meters), as well as the permitted materials and colors to ensure the installation integrates well into the neighborhood.

Which Model Should You Choose to Secure Your Installation?

The choice of fencing depends primarily on the risks you want to prevent. Rigid mesh fencing mounted on a concrete base is often the best option: the concrete slab prevents rodents or pests from burrowing under the fence and gnawing on electrical cables.

If your panels are visible from the street and you prefer to conceal them, you can add privacy slats or screening. Be careful with orientation, however: these screens must never cast shadow on your solar collectors, or your electricity production will drop. Brands such as Districlos offer rigid panels and screening kits suited to this type of installation.

Safety Distances to Plan For

The placement of your fence should not be done randomly. If you install it at the property boundary, it must be positioned strictly on your side to avoid any neighborhood disputes. If you opt for a shared boundary fence, written agreement from your neighbor is essential.

Technically, always leave a space of at least 1.50 to 2 meters between the panels and the fence. This distance allows easy circulation for maintenance and cleaning, and above all prevents the shadow of the fence (or a neighboring hedge) from blocking the sun during the day.

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When you have a low fence or a small mesh wall, you often feel exposed to prying eyes. One might think that with a height of less than one meter, privacy is impossible to achieve, but that’s not true. A few tens of centimeters are enough to block the view when you’re sitting in your deckchair or on your patio. Be careful, however: equipping a small fence requires some thought to avoid stifling the garden or damaging the support.

Here are the elements to consider when choosing the right privacy screen for your low fence.

Specifics of a Low Fence

Installing a privacy screen on an 80 cm or one-meter-high mesh fence is completely different from installing one on a two-meter panel. At this height, the visual impact is immediate: if you choose the wrong model, your garden can quickly resemble a closed, stifling enclosure.

The great advantage of a low fence is that it is much less affected by wind resistance. The risks of your mesh fence bending or tearing off during a storm are minimal. You therefore have more freedom in choosing materials, although proper fastening is always essential.

Privacy Fabric: Simple and Accessible

Synthetic fabric remains the classic choice. It’s the least expensive option and adapts very well to rolls of flexible mesh (single or double twist).

For a low height, absolutely avoid entry-level fabrics that are too thin, look ‘plastic-like,’ and fray quickly. Instead, opt for a high grammage (at least 220 g/m2). The result will be much cleaner and tauter. For color, set aside traditional forest green if you want to modernize your exterior: an anthracite gray will immediately give your borders a more contemporary look.

Rigid Slats: For a High-End Finish

If you have rigid panels, don’t hesitate: privacy slats are by far the best option. They slide directly into the mesh openings, either vertically or horizontally.

For a low height, PVC slats offer a very clean style and require no maintenance. If you prefer a warmer ambiance, wood or composite are excellent choices. They elegantly dress up a stone or concrete wall and break up the industrial look of the mesh.

Canisses and Artificial Hedges: For a Touch of Nature

If you want a more rustic or natural look, natural canisses (made of wicker, reed, or pine bark) work very well on low heights. They bring a warm feel and filter light without creating an opaque wall.

If you don’t want them to gray or get damaged by bad weather, you can opt for a good quality artificial hedge or green PVC canisses. This is a good alternative to maintain a ‘greenery’ effect all year round, without maintenance.

Tips for Successful Installation

Even on a small mesh fence, a poorly installed or loose privacy screen will immediately spoil the visual appeal. Take the time to ensure proper installation:

• Use the right equipment: plan for special fence staples, plastic clips matching the color of your fabric, or galvanized wire.
• Fasten regularly: don’t hesitate to multiply attachment points (every 30 to 50 cm). The tauter the privacy screen, the longer it will last and remain aesthetically pleasing.

Finding the Right Equipment

To ensure the success of your project, it is essential to choose durable materials suited to your type of fence. Specialized brands like Districlos offer a wide selection of privacy screens (PVC slats, high-density fabrics, natural canisses) as well as all the essential fastening accessories for an impeccable finish. Do not hesitate to ask for advice to accurately calculate the quantity of material needed for your low walls and mesh fences.

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Have you just installed a beautiful fence to define your garden, but lawn maintenance is becoming a headache? Between flying debris, mower wheels rubbing, and the strimmer line hitting the base of the posts, damage can quickly occur. Fortunately, there are simple tips to protect your installations from mowing impacts.

Here is Districlos’ advice to keep your barriers looking new and save you from tedious repairs.

What Your Fences Are Truly At Risk Of

The repeated passage of the strimmer (or string trimmer) and mower is the worst enemy of your fences. The nylon line of the strimmer spins at such a speed that it acts like a real sander: it scratches PVC, chips the paint off rigid mesh, and erodes wooden posts down to the core.

Once this protective layer is damaged, moisture seeps in. The result: rust appears on metal, mold settles on wood, and your fence ages much too quickly.

Create a Clean, Grass-Free Strip

The best way to avoid hitting your posts is simply not to have to mow too close. By creating a clean strip 20 to 30 centimeters wide along the fence, you eliminate the problem at its root.

To fill this space, you have plenty of choices: organic mulch (pine bark, wood chips) or mineral mulch (crushed slate, pebbles, gravel). Not only does this block weed regrowth, but it also gives a neat and structured look to your outdoor areas.

Install Garden Edging

To neatly define this mulched strip and prevent grass from reclaiming its territory, install garden edging. These act as a physical shield: mower wheels will bump against the edging, thus protecting your privacy panels or mesh fence.

Several options are available to you:

• Galvanized steel or Corten steel: very thin strips, almost invisible, that blend in everywhere.
• Concrete or pavers: ultra-resistant, they won’t budge an inch.
• Treated wood: warm, even if it requires slight maintenance over the years.

Pour a Concrete Plinth Under the Fence

If you are looking for a definitive solution to never have to think about it again, a concrete plinth under the fence remains the benchmark. Poured directly into the ground (ideally during installation, but feasible afterwards), this small concrete strip, about ten centimeters wide, slightly elevates the fence.

You can then pass the mower blade just above the concrete to cut the last blades of grass without risking touching the structure. It’s a bit of work initially, but offers royal comfort with every mow.

Adjust Your Tools and Mowing Technique

Sometimes, a simple change of habit is enough. When approaching posts, lower the engine speed of your strimmer. A line spinning at a moderate speed will cause significantly less damage if it brushes against a support.

For delicate finishes, you can also forgo the petrol strimmer in favor of manual shears. If you are committed to your electric device, check if it has a protective guard or a spacing shield: this accessory keeps the line at a safe distance from your installations.

Anticipate When Purchasing Your Fence

If your fence project is still in the planning stage, take the opportunity to choose the right materials. Rigid panels made of plastic-coated galvanized steel withstand small accidental impacts much better than simple flexible mesh or soft wood.

At Districlos, we often recommend adding concrete plinth boards under your rigid panels. These slabs absorb strimmer blows, mower impacts, and gravel projections without flinching, protecting the metal or privacy section of your fence from damage.

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Installing fencing on flat ground does not present any particular difficulty. However, as soon as the ground is sloped, installation becomes more complex. If your land has a significant change in level, you will have to choose between two methods: stepped installation (also called stepped sections) and slope-following. This choice determines not only the visual appearance of your fence, but also its long-term strength.

Stepped installation: the recommended option for rigid panels

To install rigid panels on a steep slope, stepped installation remains the best solution. This technique involves installing each panel perfectly level, creating a vertical offset (a step) at each post to compensate for the slope. It is the only way to respect the rigid structure of welded steel without deforming it.

In addition to providing a clean, structured finish, this method preserves the fence’s wind resistance and avoids mechanical stress on the fixings. The main challenge is keeping the step heights consistent to maintain a harmonious alignment.

Why slope-following does not work with rigid panels

Slope-following involves installing the mesh parallel to the ground, following its contour. While this method works very well for flexible roll mesh, it is almost impossible to achieve with rigid panels. Welded mesh offers no lateral flexibility: forcing a rigid panel to tilt can bend the posts, damage the fixings, and weaken the entire structure.

Visually, the result is rarely satisfactory. The panel’s vertical uprights are no longer plumb, which gives the impression of a wobbly structure. On a steep slope, it is therefore best to rule out this option.

How to achieve a successful stepped installation

This type of installation requires precision, especially when choosing the posts. As the panels step down, the posts at the offsets must be longer than for a standard installation. They must be anchored deep into the ground while extending high enough to support both the upper panel and the lower panel.

A few key points to watch on site:

• Calculate the difference in level between each post precisely to determine the height of each offset.
• Plan for longer posts (generally an extra 30 to 50 cm) to compensate for the offsets.
• Do not skimp on the concrete used to set the posts, as the slope increases wind load and stress on the structure.

Essential equipment

For this type of project, it is best to choose notched posts. They allow you to adjust the height precisely and fix the panels without having to handle complex accessories.

Using concrete gravel boards is also very useful on sloping ground. They help retain the soil, prevent ground from slipping under the fence, and close the gaps that naturally form beneath the panels due to the stepped effect.

A project to validate with specialists

Calculating post heights on a slope can quickly become complex. To avoid ordering mistakes, do not hesitate to ask for advice. The Districlos teams, fencing specialists, can help you configure your project. You can find all the necessary equipment in our stores or on our online shop to prepare your project without any unpleasant surprises.

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Installing a motorized gate changes daily life: no more getting out of your car in the rain to open the leaves. But when it comes to equipping your gate, a technical question quickly arises: is it better to opt for a classic wired connection or turn to solar?

At Districlos, we help you gain clarity to make the right choice based on your property and habits.

How a Classic Wired Motorization System Works

The wired system is the traditional solution. It requires a direct connection to the home’s electrical grid (230 V). To bring electricity to the gate posts, a trench must be dug in the garden to lay waterproof conduits and power cables.

This installation continuously powers the motor as well as all safety accessories, such as photoelectric cells, the flashing light, and the receiver. It is a robust option that ensures constant power, regardless of how often the gate is opened.

Advantages and Limitations of Wired Electric Gates

The main strength of the wired system is its reliability. The system does not depend on the weather and can handle frequent openings without strain. It is ideal for large families or co-owned property entrances where the gate opens dozens of times a day.

However, the work can quickly become extensive if you do not have other earthworks planned. Digging under a paved or asphalt driveway requires time and a certain budget. Another detail to keep in mind: in the event of a power outage, the gate remains blocked, unless you have installed a backup battery or use the manual release.

How Does a Solar Gate Automation System Work?

Contrary to common belief, a solar gate does not operate directly from real-time sunlight. The system uses three elements: a photovoltaic panel, a backup battery (placed in a waterproof casing), and a low-consumption motor (12V or 24V).

The panel captures daylight (even on cloudy days) and continuously recharges the battery. When you activate the remote control, the motor draws accumulated energy from this battery. This closed-circuit operation makes your installation autonomous from the electrical grid.

Strengths and Constraints of Solar Power

The primary advantage of solar remains its ease of installation. With no trench to dig or cable to run from the house, installation takes only a few hours, significantly reducing labor costs. Furthermore, you do not consume electricity on your overall bill.

But be aware of the limitations: the system’s efficiency directly depends on sunlight. If your entrance is heavily shaded or if you live in a region frequently subject to fog, the battery will struggle to recharge properly. Also note that the number of daily openings is limited, and the battery will need to be replaced every 5 to 7 years.

Comparison: Which System to Choose?

To help you choose the right kit, here are the three essential criteria to consider:

• Overall budget: While the solar kit is more expensive to purchase, it saves you from paying for extensive earthworks. The wired system is cheaper initially, but the cost of connection can quickly reverse that trend.
• Your property’s configuration: If the gate is more than 20 meters from your house, solar is often the simplest solution to avoid an interminable trench.
• Frequency of use: For very regular use, prioritize the wired system. For typical residential use (fewer than 10 openings per day), solar works perfectly.

Also consider the visual aspect: the solar model requires installing a small panel on a post or nearby wall, which requires some integration to remain discreet.

Installation and Maintenance: What You Need to Know

Regardless of the chosen option, do not neglect safety. A motorization system must comply with European standards to avoid any risk of accident. At Districlos, we advise you to always pair your installation with obstacle detection cells and an orange flashing light to signal gate movements.

In terms of maintenance, the wired system requires almost nothing, apart from regular lubrication of mechanical parts. For solar, you will simply need to wipe the photovoltaic panel occasionally to remove leaves, dust, or snow that could hinder its charging.

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Letting children play in the garden is an excellent way for them to burn off energy, provided the property is properly enclosed. If a gate is easy to open, there is a risk they will dart into the street in an instant. Fortunately, there are simple solutions to block access for younger children without making everyday life more complicated for adults.

Choose a suitable safety lock

The most straightforward solution is to replace your standard lock with a security model. Double-action locks (such as those from the Locinox brand) require two simultaneous movements to release the bolt: you must press a button while operating the handle. Before the age of five, a child generally has neither the physical strength nor the coordination to do this.

You can also opt for a standard keyed lock, provided you always lock the gate and store the key out of reach. This method is very effective, but it requires discipline so you do not forget the key in the lock when you come back from shopping.

Install the handle or latch higher up

On a swing gate or a wicket gate, height is your best ally. By installing the handle or latch at least 1.5 metres from the ground, you place the locking point out of reach of the smallest children, even if they stand on tiptoe.

If your current setup does not allow you to move the handle easily, simply add a surface-mounted safety bolt at the very top of the post. It is an inexpensive tip that avoids having to replace the entire mechanism.

Switch to a motorised gate

A gate automation system (whether sliding or swing) solves the problem at the root. When the gate is closed, the motor locks it mechanically. It is impossible for a child to push it open or slide it without a remote control, badge, or access code.

Automation also provides other safeguards:

• The gate closes by itself after you pass through, preventing oversights.
• You can control access remotely from an intercom or your phone.
• Modern motors include an obstacle-detection system that immediately stops closing if a child or an animal crosses.

Install a dedicated pedestrian gate

Operating a large gate for every trip in and out is not very practical. Installing a wicket gate next to it is often simpler on a day-to-day basis. Because it is smaller, it is also easier to secure.

To prevent a visitor or delivery driver from leaving it open by mistake, fit it with a hydraulic door closer (a “groom”). The wicket gate will close automatically after each passage.

Use connected alerts

If you want to keep an eye on comings and goings, a few smart devices can help without costing a fortune. A simple opening sensor installed on the gate post can send a notification to your phone as soon as the leaves open.

You can also install a small local audible alarm that beeps if the gate stays open for more than thirty seconds, or a camera aimed at the entrance to quickly confirm from your screen.

Choose robust equipment

Securing an access point is pointless if the hardware wears out after a few months. Hinges that develop play or a latch that rusts can quickly make your installation ineffective. Choose weather-resistant materials and sturdy fixings.

At Districlos, we offer gates, wicket gates, and hardware accessories designed to last and keep family outdoor areas secure. Our teams are here to help you choose the equipment best suited to your garden layout.

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Moving your chicken coop regularly is an excellent way to provide fresh grass for your hens while preventing them from ravaging the garden. But a mobile chicken coop is not enough: it must be accompanied by an equally nomadic enclosure. You need a fence that is easy to dismantle, tall enough for your poultry, and above all, a deterrent for predators.

Chicken netting: the simplest option

This is the most logical choice if you move your chicken coop often. Chicken netting (electrifiable or not) can be installed and moved in minutes. Simply push its integrated stakes into the ground to mark out a new grazing area.

For added security, opt for an electrified net connected to a battery or a small solar panel. This is the best barrier against foxes and stray dogs, who quickly learn their lesson upon first contact.

Twisted wire mesh and mobile stakes

If you want to avoid netting (which can sometimes tangle), classic twisted wire mesh remains a reliable choice. It is flexible, sturdy, and economical.

To keep it mobile, forget about concrete. Instead, pair it with lightweight fence stakes (T-shaped or plastic) that are easy to drive in and pull out by hand or with pliers during the next move.

Lightweight rigid panels: sturdy and modular

To deal with particularly persistent dogs or foxes, some breeders prefer to use short, rigid wire mesh panels connected by removable clips.

This is obviously heavier to move than a simple net, but the enclosure gains significantly in stability. This method also makes it easy to install a protective net on top to stop attacks from birds of prey.

Height and mesh size: how to get it right?

For the enclosure to fulfill its role, watch two essential points:

• Height: Allow at least 1.20 m for heavy breeds (which jump little), and go up to 1.50 m or more for lighter, more active breeds.
• Mesh size: Choose a tight mesh at the bottom (less than 50 mm). This prevents chicks from escaping and stops small predators like martens or rats from sneaking in.

Blocking intrusions from below

The weak point of a mobile enclosure remains its base. Since you cannot bury the mesh 30 cm deep as with a fixed installation, predators have free rein to dig.

The trick is to leave a strip of mesh or netting about 20 cm protruding on the ground, turned outward from the enclosure. By weighing it down with stones or tent pegs, you create a horizontal barrier that will discourage intruders from digging at the base of the net.

Equip your enclosure with Districlos

To create your custom enclosure, Districlos offers a wide range of fences, nets, and accessories suitable for mobile installations. Whether you need flexible mesh, stakes, or quick fasteners, you will find all the necessary equipment to protect your poultry. Our advisors in-store and on our website are here to help you choose the ideal configuration, with the option of quick pickup or home delivery.

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